Welcome
to Surabaya
It
was not silt which led to Gresik's eclipse; plenty of
exotic sailing craft still bob on the polluted waters
of its harbor. The culprit was the mighty colonial port
of Surabaya, just 25 km along the coast to the southeast.
Ceded to the Dutch by Mataram in 1743, Surabaya was
still smaller than Gresik in 1800. However, it had been
selected as the chief Dutch entrepot and administrative
center for East Java; and the massive growth of the
colonial economy in the 19th century made Surabaya the
busiest port and the biggest city in the Dutch Indies,
outstripping even Batavia and ranking almost alongside
Singapore in international importance. Today, Surabaya
has again been overtaken by Jakarta in size, but at
5.1 million people it is the second largest in the country
and growing fast. Surabaya's sweet name belies a reality
of heat, dirt and noise, but it is an interesting and
gripping place. This is a living cultural center, both
in the formal sense of plays and performances and in
the sense of the fusion and regeneration of folk cultures.
Surabaya is cosmopolitan,
but without the jarring pseudo-Western glitter of Jakarta.
Give or take an air-conditioned shopping complex or
two, Surabaya's atmosphere is more purely Indonesian,
with a special cast Indonesian flavor. For as Surabaya
grew as an export point for Javanese products, it also
became the hub of the maritime trading network for the
eastern archipelago as a whole. Much of its population
is from nearby Madura, but there are also large numbers
of Banjar from Kalimantan, Bugis and Minahasans from
Sulawesi and Ambonese from the Moluccas.
Surabaya's colonial boom was in a sense, a renaissance,
for the port has a long history. In 1620, it was a fortified
trading city over 30 kilometers in circumference, a
state in its own right with lordship over Gresik and
Sidayu. However, five years later Mataram took it by
siege, thus ending Surabaya's luster for more than two
centuries. According to tradition, the conquered king's
son took on the life of an ascetic at the holy grave
of Surabaya's founder - yet another wali, Sunan Ngampel,
who was a pupil of Malik Ibrahim of Gresik. His grave
can be seen in Kampong Ngampel, the birth place of the
city, now lost in the old commercial district between
the forks of the Kali Mas >> Details
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