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Thirty-five
kilometers east of Bali at its closest point,
Lombok is inevitably compared with its better-known
western neighbor, although it differs considerably
in almost every respect: physically, culturally,
linguistically and historically. It also
contrasts quite markedly for the visitor,
with less widespread tourist facilities,
sparser public transport and simpler accommodation,
although things are changing pretty rapidly.
Approximately ten percent of Lomboks
2.5 million inhabitants, are Balinese,
and it's very easy, especially if you
arrive in the west where most Balinese
are settled, surrounded by their distinctive
temples and household architecture, to
perceive Lombok simply as an extension
of Bali. However, the majority of the
populations are the indigenous Muslim
sasak, people. Today the two cultures
appear to coexist relatively amicably,
but it doesn't take too long to discern
rather less imitable emotions below the
surface- perhaps not surprising given
historical events and the fact that a
lot of the economic advantages of increased
tourism have eluded the native Sasak.
From the seventeenth century onwards,
Lombok can increasingly under Balinese
influence, after the Balinese had helped
the Sasak aristocracy defeat invaders
from Sumbawa, to the, east. Infighting
among the rajas of the four Lombok principalities
- Pagasangan, Pagutan, Mataram and Cakranegara
- further weakened the hold of the Sasak
rulers. In 1830, Ratu Agung acceded to
the throne of Mataram, and over the next
thirteen years brought the whole of Lombok
under his rule. In 1849, he also gained
control of Karangasem in east Bali in
return for supplying his subjects to the
Dutch as troops for their campaigns in
Bali. His brother, Ratu Agung Ngurah,
succeeded him in 1872, and, seeking to
serve his own ambitions in Bali, pushed
the demand for troops too far. The residents
of Praya rebelled in 1891, and unrest
quickly spread. The Dutch intervened and
eventually invaded Lombok in 1894, bringing
the entire island under colonial rule
until Indonesian Independence.
Measuring 801un by 70km, Lombok is slightly
smaller than Bali and divides conveniently
into three geographical regions. 'Me mountainous,
parched northern area is dominated by
the awesome bulk of Gunung Rinjani, at
3726m the third highest peak in Indonesia,
and until late 1994 believed to be dormant
Trekking at least part of the way up Rinjani
is the reason many tourists come to Lombok,
and it's an easily organized and highly
satisfying trip. To the south of this
mass, the central plains, about 25km wide,
contain the most productive agricultural
areas as well as the major road on the
island linking the west and east coasts.
Attractive villages perched in the southern
foothills of. Rinjani are easily accessible
from here, and many of the island's craft
centers are also in or near this cross-island
corridor. Further south again is a range
of low inland hills, around 500m high,
behind the sweeping bays and pure white
sands of the southern beaches, all of
which can be explored from Kuta, the accommodation
centre of the south and surfing focus
of the island. Several groups of islands
lie off the
Lombok coast. The trio of Gin Islands-
Trawangan, Meno and Air - off the northwest
coast, are the best known to tourists,
long-time favorites with backpackers in
search of sea, sun and sand in simple
surroundings, although Gili Trawangan,
in particular, is heading up market at
a rapid rate. Those off the southwest
peninsula and the northeast coast are
also becoming more accessible.
Lombok's rainfall ranges from 1500mm to
2000mm a year, much drier than Bali, but
wetter than Sumbawa and the islands further
east. As with Bali there are two seasons,
rainy from November to March and dry the
rest of the year. Lombok, s economy is
based on agriculture, with rice, cassava,
cotton, tobacco (major export), Soya,
beans and chili peppers being produced.
However, in recent
centuries the island has found it impossible
to support its burgeoning population,
and thousands have died in fan-tines on
the island, reportedly 50,000 as recently
as 1966. Consequently, many people have
left and continue to leave, to settle
on other Indonesian islands as part of
the government's transmigrasi scheme The
government is also trying to moderate
the island's dependence on agriculture,
and pumice is now the main export mostly
to Hong Kong.
Cultivated pearls, farmed in co-operation
with the Japanese, fetch over US$1 million
a year, seaweed and sea cucumber are growing
in economic importance, and income from
the increasingly well-known pottery industry
and from tourism is rising annually.
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